Linen is one of the most durable natural fibres you can wear, but it has a reputation for being difficult. Most of that reputation comes from following care labels too literally. Here is what we have learned from stocking and wearing linen for several years.
Cold wash, always ¶
The single most common mistake is washing linen too hot. A 30-degree cycle is fine for most pieces. Anything above 40 degrees risks shrinkage, particularly in the first few washes before the fibre has had a chance to settle. If a piece is labelled dry-clean only, that is usually a precaution from the maker rather than a strict requirement. We wash most of our own linen samples at 30 degrees with no problems.
Drying flat or on a line ¶
Tumble drying linen is the fastest way to shorten its life. The heat breaks down the flax fibres over time and the tumbling creates creases that are harder to remove than the ones you get from line drying. Hang or lay flat while still slightly damp. Linen dries quickly in summer and the natural weight of the fabric pulls out most creases on its own. If you want it crisper, iron on a medium heat while it is still slightly damp.
Storing linen between seasons ¶
Fold rather than hang for long-term storage. Hanging a linen garment for months can stretch the shoulders and distort the shape, particularly on looser cuts like the Ode to Rest shift. Store in a breathable cotton bag rather than a plastic cover. Linen needs air. Cedar blocks are useful if you are storing in a wardrobe with other natural fibres, as they deter moths without the chemical smell of mothballs.
What to do when linen pills ¶
Pilling on linen is less common than on wool or cotton jersey, but it can happen on areas of friction, like the underarm or the inside of a waistband. A fabric shaver handles it quickly. The key is to catch it early. Once a pill has been there for a while and been washed several times, it becomes harder to remove cleanly. A quick check before each wash takes about ten seconds.
If you have a specific piece you are unsure about, bring it in. Petra can advise on whether it is worth altering or refreshing, and we are happy to talk through care for anything you have bought from us.